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Showing posts with label freelance writer. Show all posts
Showing posts with label freelance writer. Show all posts

"Season to Taste" by Molly Birnbaum ~ a Review



A pleasant thing happened to me the other day.  Let me explain.  For some months I have been a really pathetic member of an online book club called Kitchen Reader whose members review books about cooking (not so much cookbooks as food writing).  The reason I have been so poor at this is all the books I have attempted to get hold of have been published in America and either very expensive or take ages to get here.  (I’m waiting for one now and it’s been quite a while.)

A lady called Sarah contacted me on behalf of the club and asked if I still wanted to be a member bearing in mind my non existent input and I explained the situation.  Guess what she did!!  Only went and sent me a book she had finished reading all the way from Hong Kong, that’s what!  What a lovely lady and what an excellent book.  


“Season to Taste ~ how I lost my sense of smell and found my way” is Molly Birnbaum’s account of her sudden and complete loss of her sense of smell due to a traffic accident.  At the time of the accident she was working in kitchens and about to start training in earnest at The Culinary Institute of America.  She writes of how it slowly dawned of her that she couldn’t smell, of her worries and fears and the implication it had on her life including her exciting career choice.  It isn’t a tear jerker tho', its fascinating.

In an attempt to understand her situation (and possibly to write a book!) Molly speaks to neurologists (including Oliver Sacks), perfumiers, attends perfumery lessons in Grasse, speaks to artists who create scent collages and symphonies and to flavourists who create tastes by mixing different chemicals to reproduce natural flavours or even create new ones.  Flavourists are essential to the processed food business.  

I find it hard to imagine a life without the sense of smell because I think it often runs in the background of our lives informing us without our actually noticing.  Since reading this book I often have a good old sniff to see what I can smell!  Sometimes I am surprised at what is going on olfactorily without my being consciously aware of it.  At the same time it is easy for me (after cheffing for over 30 years) to realise how great a loss it would be in the kitchen.

Happily Molly gets her sense of smell back, if that isn’t too much of a spoiler, but her journey makes for a fascinating read.

Season to Taste was recommended to Kitchen Reader by Katherine Martinelli whose interesting blog I shall be having a wander round shortly.  

Two Coincidences …

1.   Sarah from Kitchen Reader is not alone in her loveliness.  A day or two before I received the above from Hong Kong I received a surprise book from my friend Bob in New Hampshire, the U.S. of A.  Yes he is a friend but he’s never done this before!  He had finished the book; “Spice: The History of a Temptation” by Jack Turner, and thought, quite rightly, that I would like it.  I will let you know more about it soon in a separate post (which I have now written - here!)

2.   “Season to Taste” mentions Jack Turner's “Spice” ~ I had never heard of either of these books, received both as gifts from foreign parts in the same week and they are inter-related.



Dark Chocolate Mousse marbled with Cream & Brandy

Today is my real man’s 50th birthday and I didn’t make him a cake!  No wait – I had my reasons.  

The thing is for many years our friend Carol has been in charge of providing him with cake and his birthday is no exception.  As I fully expected she did make him a cake but, here’s the rub, it has a note attached saying 

"Needs a few days maturing (like you)” 

so it couldn’t actually be eaten on The Day.

fruit-cakes-need-maturing

I didn’t panic; I just calmly made his favourite chocolate mousse.  This is a recipe I have been using pretty well since time began and it has always been popular with punters and friends alike. What took it to new heights, however, in the selling department was my adding a description to the menu …

chocolate-mouse-description

... the reason I said "inexplicable" is because I have no idea why they happen.  Every time I make this mousse I wonder if they'll be there and they always are!



Dark Chocolate Mouse marbled with Cream & Brandy (as it happens) ~ with inexplicable etc. etc. etc.


This makes quite a lot – enough for 6-8 I would have thought.

chocolate-mousse-recipe
Handy hint – to break chocolate I usually throw it onto the floor, still wrapped of course.

285g dark chocolate – broken
85g butter
5 egg whites
5 egg yolks (convenient!)
50g caster sugar – divided into 2 x 25g
480ml double cream
tot of brandy, rum or whatever

~   Melt the chocolate together with the butter in accordance with the instructions here (where there are also lots of delicious chocolate recipes!)
~   Whisk together the egg whites and 25g of caster sugar till stiff.
~   In a separate bowl whisk the egg yolks and the rest of the sugar till creamy.
~   In yet another bowl whisk the cream and brandy together till thick.
~   Fold together the yolks and whites then fold in the chocolate.  Folding is essential here, not stirring, as you need to keep all the air that has been whipped in earlier.
~   Fold in the cream – I do it partially for a marbled effect.
~   Put into a pretty bowl and chill till needed.  This keeps for several days if you don’t test it too much – see below.
***

Here is the mousse hiding in the fridge (I couldn't find the R!), I tried to take one with the candles alight but I was useless!


dark-chocolate-mousse

*** At one time, when I ran a very busy restaurant kitchen, I made what felt like gallons of the stuff every day.  Having always been a stickler for quality control, especially where chocky is concerned, I used to assiduously check the mousse every time I went into the cold room (several times an hour) till I developed borderline high cholesterol and decided it was probably keeping OK on its own!

This afternoon we went to Charlestown and wandered around looking at the old boats, and the sea in the winter sun and we also partook of a couple of pints.  My real man is pretty low key when it comes to celebrating but we really enjoyed it – just the two of us with nothing to do but please ourselves, something I don’t think we’ve done since April!


Whilst moseying about we came upon a friendly chap running a mobile farm shop from an old electric milk float.  Seems to extend a warm welcome to everyone!


dalek-on-holiday

I nicked that picture off their site!

He had some tempting local fruit and veg for sale, homemade breads, plus my favourite Spicy Red Onion Marmalade, Raw Chocolate and all sorts of goodies.  Might have to pop down to Charlestown for another pint next week.



"Small Adventures in Cooking" by James Ramsden ~ a Review


~  Menu  ~

Tagliatelle with Black Garlic Alfredo
Crunchy Blue Cheese Crumbs
Glass of Secret Red
Sweetie out my Advent Calendar

You may remember that I have already reviewed two excellent books in the New Voices in Food Series published by Quadrille; Stevie Parle’s "Real Food from Near and Far" and Niamh Shields “Comfort & Spice”.   Well here’s another one and, quelle surprise, it’s as good as the other two.  I thought I’d better get it reviewed before Christmas as it would make a great pressie.

First of all I must say I like this guy’s style – really easy and relaxed; less like a chef telling you how it is than a friend chatting about food.  Surprisingly, but in a good way, his recipes in the chapter “Corner Shop Capers” are built around tinned foods and his instructions are certainly not “set in stone” he gives lots of tweaking ideas and ways to tart up his dishes.  Also, I am pleased to say, he advises the intelligent use of leftovers.  He gives shopping tips, help on seasoning correctly, advice on what knife to use, how to be happy and some really delicious things to do with Vodka,   
He even gives #hashtags for each recipe in case you want to discuss them on Twitter plus his email and Twitter addresses – as I say; friendly.  In short I do very much recommend this book; it is interesting to me as a chef (resting!) but will also be great for home cooks and people learning to be home cooks.  The recipes are inspiring yet accessible and I think I shall try his Tomato & Goats Cheese Gratin first.


The book, like the others in the series, is an attractive cardboardback with photo by Steven Joyce, it was publishes by Quadrille Publishing Ltd last Jun, (ISBN-10: 1844009572, ISBN-13: 978-1844009572) and you can get it from Amazon here



Coincidentally James Ramsden has included a comforting note on making mistakes. 



Coincidentally because I have this very day had a bit of a cock up on the catering front.  I read somewhere that if one mixed together equal quantities of blue cheese and butter and munged in the same quantity of flour (ie. 33:33:33 – plus a rogue 1) the resulting dough made lovely blue cheese crisps.  Well mine didn’t, it made a tray of very delicious unconnected crunchy crumbs.  Well you know what I am for a leftover – I made myself Tagliatelle Alfredo with some black garlic in it and sprinkled on the totally yummy mistake.  All’s well that ends well – I think I might do it again.

We have an advent calendar each in our house (we’re dead posh) – so I had my piece of chocolate for lunch pudding.

Incidentally I do have the fourth book in the New Voices in Food series; Alice Hart’s “Alice’s Cook Book” and will try and get that reviewed asap.  She has a new book due out next year “Friends at my Table”, I know this because Quadrille recently sent me a load of blads!!!  I know, what a surprise!  






Apparently blad stands for basic layout and design and these ones also include a few samples from the books - there seem to be lots of good things coming up.  Stevie Parle also has a new book on the way “Dock Kitchen Cookbook” and exciting things, too, from Peggy Porschen, Sam Stern, Tamsin Day-Lewis and Nathan Outlaw.  There is also a book called “Drink Me” by Matt Walls about how to choose, taste and enjoy wine – as I am convinced that the only way to learn about wine is to experience it this is something I am looking forward to studying!