26 June 2011

Salmon & Leek Gratin, Elderflowers and a Wonderful Food Shop in Cornwall

~  Menu  ~

Salmon & Leek Gratin
A little Salad
Elderflower Cordial and Sparkling Water

I was counting all the meat in the freezer this morning (you have to make your own entertainment in rural areas) when I found a salmon fillet.  As I always have a few leeks about which are a basic for me, this enabled me to have a little gratin for my lunch.  This is something we used to have on the menu at our restaurant, The House on the Strand, years ago.  It was a popular dish.

Salmon & Leek Gratin – serves 1 (because that’s how many I am, real man not wishing to eat such fancy cooking).

170g salmon fillet
1 small leek – cleaned and thinly sliced
15g butter
90g double cream
a girly handful of breadcrumbs

~   Melt the butter in a small pan and stir in the leeks to coat thoroughly.
~   Turn down the heat and press something suitable (ie. a butter wrapper, greaseproof paper of piece of foil) directly onto the surface of the leeks.  Cover the pan.
~   Cook gently for 10-15 minutes keeping an eye on things and giving the occasional stir till very tender.
~   Place the piece of salmon on top of the leeks and cook for another 5 minutes till the fish flakes easy with the simple application of a fork. 
~   Set the fish aside, and stir the cream into the leeks.
~   Taste and season – I added a little crumbled veg Oxo.
~   Bring to a boil and cook a minute or two.
~   Remove from the heat, flake the salmon and fold into the creamy goo.
~   Turn into a heatproof dish, sprinkle with the crumbs, dot with butter and finish under a hot grill.




The elderflowers are fast fading in the lanes.  I wanted to have a go at making elderflower cordial but the caravan is just too small for such outrageous behaviour.  I’ll do it next year when we’ll be in a real house – grown up or what! 






In the meantime I contented myself with picking a few of the flowers (and learning that they don’t last long in a vase) and drinking some cordial a friend made.

A few days ago I wrote a little about St.Austell,  my soon to be home town, and how well it is doing re-inventing itself.  One great addition is Nature Kitchen, a small, interesting and wonderfully fragrant shop.


It is stacked with numerous pots of herbs and spices including hundreds of hard to find ingredients - just look at this small section!


In addition to all these wonderful herbs and spices they sell whole foods, natural remedies, plants, a few interesting kitchen utensils, fresh fruit and veg and have a deli which also offers delicious salads, sandwiches, soups etc..  This really is a lucky find – look for it on your right when leaving the main car park on your way down to the main shopping area and rejoice!
  
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22 June 2011

Easy Cheese Straws from Pastry Scraps

~  Menu  ~

Roasted Tomato Soup
Hot Cheese Straws
Glass of Red

I made a chicken pie for my real men yesterday using the standard cheat – bought in puff pastry.  Obviously I kept the trimmings and today, whilst they were out and I could eat them all myself, I made some cheese straws. 

As I may have said before the best way to store puff pastry trimmings is to stack rather than munge them so as to retain the layers in the dough …


Cheese Straws

~   Roll out puff pastry scraps on a very lightly floured but rather heavily cheesed board – scattered in this case with a mixture of grated Cornish Crackler and Gran Padano,

~   Roll the pastry to “quite thin” (technical term),
~   Sprinkle more cheese on top,
~   Fold into three and re-roll,
~   Cut the dough into long strips, twist them into spirals and put onto a greased baking tray.
~   Chill till needed.
~   Preheat oven to 200°C/400°F/180C fan/gas 6.               
~   Brush the straws with milk and sprinkle with crunchy sea salt  and a little more cheese,
~   Bake till risen and golden and melty and crisp and gorgeous.

I ate the straws with a modicum of Roasted Tomato Soup I made from some sad tomatoes I found lurking in the fridge.


Please Click Here to Tweet this fascinating post!

We've had loads of rain recently but did manage to sup a few beers (well cider in my case) a couple of days ago in our favourite pub garden at the St. Kew Inn at … St. Kew coincidentally.


In addition to its lovely garden this pub has a fine reputation for food - when I am not with my real man I'll give it a try and report back.





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18 June 2011

Sugared White Peaches on Toasted Cake!

~  Menu  ~

Broccoli & Cornish Crackler Gratin
Toasted Vicky’s Bread
Glass of Red
Sugared Peaches on Grilled Cake

I have just sautéed the worst potatoes I have ever seen in my 472 years as a chef.  I have no idea what was wrong with them.  They were labelled “Baking Potatoes” in the supermarket and looked and felt perfectly normal.  I cooked them exactly as I have always done, which is …. peel, dice, cold water, salt, to a boil, turn down, partially cover, simmer till tender, drain, allow to steam dry a few minutes, heat a little oil in frying pan, when hot add hot potatoes, cook without too much disturbance but with a bit of a shake and a toss every now and then till crispy, crunchy and golden.  I have never had a problem before but these potatoes were appalling; they looked and felt slimy after a few minutes in the frying pan and they shrunk like you know what!  I wonder what they were!  Any ideas?

On a happier note yesterday afternoon, before the potato fiasco, we had a swift half in The Earl of St. Vincent; a very pretty pub in the village of Egloshayle near Wadebridge.  The pub is an old cottage full of antiques including 215 clocks and it’s kind of magical on the hour when they all strike (at least it was at 2.00 in the afternoon, maybe not so good at midnight) with all the tinkles, chimes, cuckoos and bongs.


Anyway back to lunch which was as listed above.  My darling brought home an unfeasibly large amount of broccoli which he had bought for 30p so I felt behooved to eat as much of it as poss.  We had Broccoli Cheese as our veg dish last night using wonderful Cornish Crackler Cheddar from Davidstow (is that an oxymoron – Cornish and Cheddar) and believe me I made plenty. 

Today I gently heated up the leftovers having stirred in a little more cheese and some double cream to loosen it a bit.  Piled onto hot toast with a sprinkling of crisply fried breadcrumbs and lots of black pepper it made a gorgeous lunch which this picture doesn’t do justice.   


Simple, Basic, Normal Cheese Sauce


40g butter
40g plain flour
pinch Colemans English mustard powder
500ml milk
90g grated mature Cheddar

~   In a small saucepan melt the butter and then stir in the flour and mustard powder to form a paste.
~   Cook stirring over low heat a minute or so and then gradually whisk in the milk.
~   Bring to a boil whisking constantly – the sauce will thicken.
~   Turn down the heat and simmer for five minutes.
~   Stir in the grated cheese till melted.
~   Taste and season and if you feel the sauce is a little on the thick side feel free to add a bit more milk.

This sauce is great for all sorts of things including pouring over lightly cooked broccoli, sprinkling with a little extra grated cheese and some fresh breadcrumbs then baking in a hot oven till a bubbling and golden gratin has happened.  Also other cheeses, so long as they are good melters, can be used instead of or as well as cheddar.

Whilst in Wadebridge I bought some white peaches from The Vine and talk about delish! 



We had peaches and cream for dessert - I diced the peaches with their pretty pink skin still on and tossed them in a little soft brown sugar an hour or two before serving.  Today, had a spoonful on chargrilled leftover pound cake I found lurking in the freezer together with a few strawberries the birds had missed and a little cream - a kind of sudden trifle if you will.   Geordie lads last night just had juicy peaches, cream and shortbread - no cake, no strawberries poor things but still good.   




Incidentally any leftover peach and brown sugar juice is great topped up with sparkling water, ginger ale or Champagne,

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14 June 2011

Cheaty Caesar Dressing, Cantaloupe Sorbet and The Hounds of Geevor!

~  Menu  ~

Caesar Salad with Frazzled Prosciutto
Glass of Red
Cantaloupe and Lime Sorbet

I have a forgetful friend who having once tasted my Caesar Dressing asked for the recipe every few weeks for several years, bless her.  I think she may have nailed it now as I haven’t had to remind her for quite a while.

I have the second half of the romaine lettuce I cooked the other day and a couple of slices of prosciutto in the fridge so I’m laughing.  I haven’t had Caesar Salad since I was last in the islands where it is a staple, due to the American influx, and almost compulsory on a menu in one form or another.

I think this is a quasi cheat – I do start out making a proper Caesar dressing but then I suddenly deviate and add a good old dollop of ready made mayonnaise at the end.  I find this makes for a creamier consistency which clings to the lettuce even more deliciously than the real stuff AND there is no raw egg involved which is great if you want to keep a batch for a while or are of an infirm inclination.

Caesar Dressing for Cheats …

1 tsp Dijon mustard
1 oz shredded Parmesan
2-3 anchovies
juice of half a lemon
dash of Worcestershire sauce
good grind of black pepper
1 tbsp olive oil
2 tbsp mayonnaise

~   In a food processor or liquidiser blend together all the ingredients down to the olive oil.
~   When smooth add the mayonnaise and give it a quick whizz.
~   Taste and season but I doubt it will need anything – almost definitely not salt.

Once you’ve got this in your fridge making a great Caesar Salad is a doddle.  All you need is some salad leaves (crunchy are best, romaine/cos is traditional) and a handful of croutons . To make a meal of it top with grilled chicken or crispy bacon or, as I did, a little frazzled prosciutto (just tear up some Parma ham and fry till crisp in a little olive oil).


Caesar Dressing can be used in several other dishes – try it as a dressing on potato salad (maybe with a little more mayonnaise), as a sauce in a chicken sandwich or wrap, or drizzle over baked fish.  Mash some into baked potato or use as a dipping sauce for crudités. 

The other day my friend Carol had quite a lot of leftover melon and, like me, she doesn’t like waste so she had an inspiration … give it to me!  I left it in the fridge for a while, forgetting about it for large stretches of time, till yesterday when I realised that I was in a use it or lose it situation.  I made a sudden sorbet.  This is what I did, it seems to have worked.

Cantaloupe & Lime Sorbet

350g coarsely chopped cantaloupe melon
90g caster sugar
zest and juice of 1 lime

~   Purée the lot all together, bung in a plastic container and freeze.
~   Every hour or two take the sorbet out of the freezer and mash it with a fork (or in my case a bad tempered potato masher ~ he likes to make an appearance now and then).


That’s it – if you don’t mash it you’ll have a granita which is OK too. For a lot more info on making sorbets and granitas see my very cheap and appropriately named little ebook "Sorbets & Granitas".



I had a smidgen of this as a palate cleanser, as one does, after my salad but I think it would also be good with a spoonful of ginger wine poured over it OR mixed in with it before freezing which would make it more softly scoopable. 

The Hounds of Geevor

I often see these chaps when I’m wandering round Padstow so thought I’d give them a mention. 


Geevor in West Penwith was one of the last deep tin mines in Cornwall and it closed in 1991. Talented recyclist David Kemp used the discarded miners’ wellies to create a pack of hounds; the Hounds of Geevor (cannus stannus geevoritii) who, rumour has it, wander the cliffs of Cornwall looking for a proper job.  (That is a Cornish joke which may not be understood by most people – sorry!)


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11 June 2011

Smoky Bacon-Balsamic Dressing over Chargrilled Romaine Lettuce

~  Menu  ~

Chargrilled Romaine Lettuce
Bacon & Balsamic Dressing
Seriously Small Glass of Red Wine
A few Strawberries
Homemade Clotted Cream Ice Cream
A leftover Scone

This is a little something I thought up years ago as an occasional lunch special – it does sound strange but works very well; the dressing drizzles down between the leaves of the lettuce and sweetens them in a most agreeable manner.  The dressing is a handy way of using up just a rasher or two of bacon and is also excellent for fresh spinach.

Chargrilled Romaine Lettuce with a warm Bacon-Balsamic Dressing & Shredded Parmesan – serves 2


a small romaine lettuce cut in half lengthwise
3 tbsp olive oil* plus a little extra
2 rashers of smoky back bacon in small dice
½ tsp runny honey
2 tsp balsamic vinegar
handful freshly grated Parmesan cheese
freshly ground black pepper

~   In a small pan cook the bacon in the 3 tbsp olive oil till it is crisp and golden.
~   Lift the bacon from the oil with a slotted spoon and set aside to drain on kitchen roll.
~   Allow the olive oil to cook slightly then stir in the honey and vinegar.
~   Set aside for a few minutes whilst cooking the lettuce.
~   Pre-heat a grill pan, griddle or frying pan to good and hot.
~   Lightly coat the cut side of the lettuce with fresh olive oil.
~   Season and cook cut side down for a few minutes till turning golden.  Do not cook the other side.
~   Serve the lettuce cut side up, drizzled with the warm dressing and sprinkled with crispy bacon and Parmesan.  Grind over a plentiful grind of black pepper.

*  As you have probably realised this is really great, in a way, with bacon fat instead of olive oil.


For dessert I rather spoiled myself.  I had a little homemade clotted cream ice cream and an old frozen scone. (Not that old!). So I picked a few strawberries and had this for me pud.  It’s not my fault – I was just trying to make room in the freezer.

Clotted Cream Ice Cream 


Makes not quite enough!

You will be gobsmacked, in a good way, by the easy-peasiness of the this recipe!
         
250 ml Cornish clotted cream
250 ml single cream
200 g condensed milk

­ ~     Slowly whisk together the two creams till merged and then up the speed and whisk till thick.
­  ~    Fold in the condensed milk.
­  ~    Freeze


Take this ice cream out of the freezer for a few minutes before you need it so that it can "temper" or warm up a bit. Ice creams without the addition of alcohol, syrup or other sugary addition often need to soften a bit before serving.




I have given a lot of info on making ice cream and how to create your own wonderful ices in my book (and ebook!) "Luscious Ice Creams without a Machine ....or much Time or Effort or having to Mash the Stuff as it Freezes" which gives one genius no-churn recipe together with more than 100 recipes plus ideas, inspirations, inclusions, accoutrements and serving suggestions. 


Yesterday I had a brisk wander, if such a thing is possible, around St. Austell. It’s never been a favourite place of mine but is in the process of reinventing itself and is doing quite well. I am stoked about this as we shall soon be moving into our house in a nearby village and St. A will be my local town. 

The new White River Place has some good shopping plus street entertainment and little stalls selling home made jams and local produce. The Eden Project have a great café there and I really like this trompe l’oeil mural painted by local artist Janet Shearer on a building at the top of Trinity Street. It shows people of merit who were born or lived in the St Austell area enjoying themselves at a fictional ‘China Café’.


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7 June 2011

Toast on Eggs!

~  Menu  ~

Toast on Eggs
Charred Asparagus
Glass of my Secret Red Wine

I love preparing eggs this way; it makes such a change from eggs on toast!  Seriously it is a different way of getting crunch into my meals (something I insist on) when I only have untoastworthy scraps of bread. 

I also love asparagus and usually prefer to roast rather than steam it for a more intense flavour.  The other day, however, I saw Jamie Oliver char some in a ridge pan and thought if it’s good enough for him its good enough for me.  It was a delicious combination - I knew it would be.  Years ago when my sister and I had The House on the Strand at Trebarwith we used to buy a lot of asparagus in June under the pretense that we were going to sell it but instead we usually ate the lot ourselves dipped into soft boiled eggs.  We’ve always been bad. 

This is how my lunch looked just after I’d made it …


grilled-asparagus-suzy-bowler

… and this is how it looked just after I started eating it, you’ll see that at this stage I used up the leftover crusts too.

how-to-cook-toast-on-eggs

This doesn’t really warrant a recipe but here goes …

Toast on Eggs ~ per person

15-20ml olive oil (or bacon fat if you are running low on cholesterol) plus a little extra
a handful of soft breadcrumbs – approx 1 standard slice of bread, crumbled
salt and pepper and any other seasoning you fancy (chilli?)
2 eggs

~   Drizzle the olive oil over the breadcrumbs and stir to moisten.
~   Season to taste.
~   Dry fry the crumbs in a hot pan stirring them about till they are crisp and golden.
~   Set aside, wipe out the pan and use it to fry a couple of eggs in a little oil.  
~   Sprinkle over the crumbs and serve.

I cooked the asparagus in a dry ridge pan for a few minutes per side till starting to go brown in places, then added a drizzle of olive oil and a sprinkling of Cornish sea salt and tossed it around a bit.  I think Jamie Oliver added lemon juice but I didn’t fancy it with the eggs. (Actually I think I'll go back to roasting!)

Whilst I was serving the asparagus I dropped a piece on the floor and this, grumpy old woman that I am, made me think “tsk – young people today”. When I was younger we used to have a 5 Second Rule which meant that if a bit of food was only on the floor for 5 seconds you could still use it.  These days it is called the 6 Second Rule – lazy or what?

Pangrattato!

These crunchy cooked breadcrumbs are known as pangrattato – they are a great way of improving almost any meal.  Read more here.


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6 June 2011

“Plate to Pixel” by Hélène Dujardin – a review

I start this post with a slight blowing of the old trumpet – my article on an extremely easy “alternative” way to make ice cream is in July’s Vegetarian Living – OUT NOW!   I say “alternative” in that tone of voice because although it is not a traditional custard based recipe it makes exceedingly good ice cream.  When I was cheffing in the Caribbean there was an erratic electricity supply, minimal catering equipment, and no high quality ice cream product available so I used this method to develop all sorts of yummy ices and desserts.  Here’s a pic of one I made earlier – Cherry Bounce Ice Cream (Cherry Bounce is made the same way as Rumtopf) – and either this picture is not as good as I think it is or it’s a fluke … read on.


I have written a whole book, with the working title "Lush Ice Cream without a Machine - or much time or effort or having to mash the stuff as it freezes", about this very useful alternative method.  In it I give loads of recipes, ideas, serving suggestions, anecdotes, ancillary recipes and even a few photos. It is now available here or see sidebar.

Speaking of books and pictures the main focus of today’s post is, “Plate to Pixel – Digital Food Photography & Styling” by Hélène Dujardin (what a pretty name – Helen of the Garden) which I have just purchased. 


Until recently I have had no more than a passing, holiday snap kind of interest in taking pictures but now I've started blogging and writing it has suddenly caught my attention in a big way.  Unfortunately this new enthusiasm is not as yet apparent in the images I produce no matter how hard I try.  Undeterred I am sometimes cheeky enough to submit pictures to the foodie photo sites who are all quite stringent about the quality of the photographs they accept.  The ones I have tried include FoodGawker, Tastespotting, Tasteologie, Dishfolio and Kitchen Artistry all of whom have  accepted a a few of my photos (links) but I'd like to be more certain of quality of my pictures every time I take them.  Hence my purchase of this lovely book.

One of the first sentences I read, on flicking through when it arrived, was “… you may think that this book applies to people with a dSLR camera, that it’s not for those with a Point & Shoot.  But that’s not the case” (OK – 2 sentences).  This gladdened my heart because I do have a newish P & S (photographer talk – see it’s working already) which I’m really pleased with.   

The second chapter of the book, after basics, deals with camera settings which really cleared up a few matter for me; how, when and why to adjust white balance, what ISO means (concerning light sensitivity) and how to work with it, apertures, depth of field etc.  At first it seems a little hard to take in but I found it much easier to understand whilst actually looking at my camera and its manual. 

Lighting is next, how to work in natural and in artificial light, and I learnt a lot – I’m excited to start trying out diffusion and the bouncing of light when I’ve got a bit more space.  A small caravan is not the ideal place for photographic experimentation so some of my learning will have to be deferred for a few weeks when we will be moving.

I did have a bit of a play; here are some photos I took of freshly baked shortbreads, I’m reasonably pleased with them - both the shortbreads and the photos.


The trouble is I don’t know which I like best and in any case I can’t remember what I did for each picture; I shall avail myself of a notebook for my next try! 

After the technical info the book moves on into exciting chapters on composition, styling, getting ready for “capture” (as we photographers say), props, fabrics, etc.   Hélène Dujardin does stress the importance of understanding the technical matters before getting into the creative side of things but I couldn’t resist a look especially considering my limitations space wise at the moment.

The final chapter touches on photo editing, storage, photo sharing and gives some useful resources.

Hélène Dujardin’s tone of writing friendly and informal yet very easy to understand.   Like me she got started in food photography when, as a chef, she took photos of meals to show kitchen staff how to present dishes.  There the similarity ends!

The book itself is very attractive – lovely pics, obviously - a nice heavy paperback and the only criticism I have is that it is not an easy shape to read lying down whilst sipping a brandy.  Probably just as well anyway; as I said above to really learn I think it needs a bit more involvement.

Plate to Pixel” by Hélène Dujardin, which I wholeheartedly recommend to anyone who, like me, needs a little help in the photography department, was published in paperback by John Wiley & Sons in May of this year.  Here are the relevant numbers … 
ISBN-10: 0470932139  ISBN-13: 978-0470932131 

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